ALBERTO ULMI
THE COLLECTOR
Born in Florence in 1978, Alberto Ulmi first approached the world of collecting in the late 1990s. Initially, his passion revolved around experimental progressive house vinyl records, which he showcased at various venues in and around Florence, while today he explores a diverse range of genres, including rock, punk, and electronic music. Since his childhood, Alberto (aka VINTAGECOLLECTOR78 on social media) has been captivated by vintage clothing and objects, yet his growing fascination with basketball sneakers, particularly iconic styles like TOP TEN, REBOUND, and AIR WING, truly ignited his passion later on.
"I had a genuine obsession with the AIR WINGS," Alberto tells us as he arranges the meat on the grill. Over the years, his collection has expanded and evolved, shaped by his personal taste and preferences: "I’ve never been too concerned about the size. If I came across a pair I liked, and the price was right, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy it. Among the earliest low shoes that caught my interest, I remember the Adidas Tobacco shoes that were incredibly popular in the early 1990s when I was 15-16 years old. These shoes embodied a specific lifestyle and came in different colors, ranging from green and brown to blue and burgundy." "Honestly, I can’t remember which style was the first in my collection, but it was definitely an Adidas basketball shoe."
"I had a genuine obsession with the AIR WINGS," Alberto tells us as he arranges the meat on the grill. Over the years, his collection has expanded and evolved, shaped by his personal taste and preferences: "I’ve never been too concerned about the size. If I came across a pair I liked, and the price was right, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy it. Among the earliest low shoes that caught my interest, I remember the Adidas Tobacco shoes that were incredibly popular in the early 1990s when I was 15-16 years old. These shoes embodied a specific lifestyle and came in different colors, ranging from green and brown to blue and burgundy." "Honestly, I can’t remember which style was the first in my collection, but it was definitely an Adidas basketball shoe."
"I like high and wide basketball shoes, in the beginning I used to collect only that kind."
Adidas Forum High 1984
Shoe used by Michael Jordan before
signing his contract with Nike
Shoe used by Michael Jordan before
signing his contract with Nike
Before we get into the details of your story, we would like to know, what it means to you to be a collector?
As far as I’m concerned, shoe collecting is not about fashion or business, but is related to a real passion. Everyone chooses their own collection and structure it according to their personal style. Many collectors, for example, focus only on shoes in their size, creating a specific collection. Personally, I disagree with this limitation and prefer to own a wide variety of styles and sizes, but of course I respect their choices.
My experience includes more than just sneakers. My collecting passions include American Workwear, ghettoblasters, Military clothing, watches, glasses and soccer balls.
Keep in mind that I began collecting from scratch. When I started, I was still living with my mother and what I own today is the result of more than 20 years of research, negotiations and purchases. Initially, I didn’t have a lot of capital, so my first purchases were made using the money I had saved up as a young boy
My experience includes more than just sneakers. My collecting passions include American Workwear, ghettoblasters, Military clothing, watches, glasses and soccer balls.
Keep in mind that I began collecting from scratch. When I started, I was still living with my mother and what I own today is the result of more than 20 years of research, negotiations and purchases. Initially, I didn’t have a lot of capital, so my first purchases were made using the money I had saved up as a young boy
"Shoe collecting is not about fashion or business, but is related to a real passion"
What was the turning point for your collection?
"In the 2000s, from 2001 to 2005, I started to expand my collection. If I came across a pair I liked, I would buy it. The day everything changed was when a friend suggested I look for them directly in physical stores and warehouses. I was skeptical at first, thinking that not much could be found. I quickly realized that I was wrong, and from that moment, I started calling all the stores in Italy spending hours and hours looking for new pairs of shoes.
In those years, I must have gotten my hands on about 5,000 pairs of sneakers, although of course I didn’t have the money to be able to keep them all. I often bought them at very low prices because they were part of old stock that the owners wanted to get rid of. With few collectors and no established resale culture at the time, I was unsure about what the future would hold for me. It was my passion that drove everything.
Between 2005 and 2010, warehouses and stores offered a diverse selection of shoes, including running, tennis, and soccer footwear. That’s when I expanded my interest to other things besides basketball. I was able to keep the best shoes and give away the ones that didn’t interest me. I bought shoes in blocks of 100, and by trading or selling the ones I didn’t need, I could cover the cost of the ones I kept.
In those years, I must have gotten my hands on about 5,000 pairs of sneakers, although of course I didn’t have the money to be able to keep them all. I often bought them at very low prices because they were part of old stock that the owners wanted to get rid of. With few collectors and no established resale culture at the time, I was unsure about what the future would hold for me. It was my passion that drove everything.
Between 2005 and 2010, warehouses and stores offered a diverse selection of shoes, including running, tennis, and soccer footwear. That’s when I expanded my interest to other things besides basketball. I was able to keep the best shoes and give away the ones that didn’t interest me. I bought shoes in blocks of 100, and by trading or selling the ones I didn’t need, I could cover the cost of the ones I kept.
Over time, I had access to major warehouses including one in Massa Carrara that turned out to be a real paradise with three floors of vintage shoes. I remember paying full price for shoes there.
Another significant turning point occurred between 2014-2015, when a friend contacted me while I was on vacation in Greece. He told me that he had found the stock of a store in Milan that had closed in 2001. I was confronted with a stock of more than 5,000 pairs of shoes, covering a time span of 40 years, from 1970 to 2010. It was a real treasure trove. He set me an average price of 30 euros per pair and I managed to take away about 1,000 pairs.
A large part of the shoes in my collection comes from that warehouse. Stepping inside that place was like a child entering Disneyland. I even spent three days staying at the owner’s house. I was determined to assess the contents of every single box before leaving.
Another significant turning point occurred between 2014-2015, when a friend contacted me while I was on vacation in Greece. He told me that he had found the stock of a store in Milan that had closed in 2001. I was confronted with a stock of more than 5,000 pairs of shoes, covering a time span of 40 years, from 1970 to 2010. It was a real treasure trove. He set me an average price of 30 euros per pair and I managed to take away about 1,000 pairs.
A large part of the shoes in my collection comes from that warehouse. Stepping inside that place was like a child entering Disneyland. I even spent three days staying at the owner’s house. I was determined to assess the contents of every single box before leaving.
Do you ever get to wear some shoes from your collection?
In the past 20 years, I have only opened and worn two pairs of vintage shoes.
Obviously, it was shoes that I owned at least another pair of in mint condition.
I prefer to keep my vintage shoes intact and not use them, since finding another pair and then replacing them can prove impossible.
Obviously, it was shoes that I owned at least another pair of in mint condition.
I prefer to keep my vintage shoes intact and not use them, since finding another pair and then replacing them can prove impossible.
"If you restore a shoe to the point that it looks new, you are no longer a vintage collector."
Have you ever thought about opening a physical store?
No, I’ve never thought about turning this passion into an actual job; it’s always been just fun for me. I was born with a passion for vintage; it’s a deeply personal connection rather than a business pursuit. I am attracted to vintage objects and have been wearing vintage clothes since I was 10 years old. Although it is possible to gain financial benefits from shoe collecting today, it is important to remember that the real value lies in the passion, research and love for the shoes themselves.
"It is the passion that moves us."
The futuristic-looking Micro Pacer produced a small revolution in 1984. It was the first running shoe with an integrated mini computer: it could record the number of kilometres run, average speed and even calories burned.
Adidas Stan Smith Haillet The version of this shoe with both Stan Smith and Haillet logos is extremely rare.
What do you see as the added value of a vintage shoe compared to the new productions?
I personally see the difference in the quality, the colors of the era, and the fact that many of those shoes were handmade, with random flaws and blemishes that made them human. I like the smell of vintage shoes and being able to touch those hand-applied glues.
To mention a couple of examples, let’s take the 'Phantom' and 'Associate' shoes. These were iconic footwear from the 1990s that used to evoke a special feeling in me. However, over time, I noticed a visible change in the quality of colors and materials compared to those from earlier years. In my opinion, Nike’s best production was from the years '79 to '87. As for Adidas, we go from '77 until '89.
From the mid-1980s, there was a revolution in terms of materials, colors, and technology that involved all brands.
To mention a couple of examples, let’s take the 'Phantom' and 'Associate' shoes. These were iconic footwear from the 1990s that used to evoke a special feeling in me. However, over time, I noticed a visible change in the quality of colors and materials compared to those from earlier years. In my opinion, Nike’s best production was from the years '79 to '87. As for Adidas, we go from '77 until '89.
From the mid-1980s, there was a revolution in terms of materials, colors, and technology that involved all brands.
What do you think of people who have sneakers restored or modified?
If you restore a shoe to the point where it looks like new, you are no longer in the category of vintage collectors in my opinion. You are dealing with a different kind of collector here. If, for example, you have a sole replaced, the shoe becomes different from its original version, and to me it loses value. I’ve never been fond of used shoes, no matter how rare they may be. The true satisfaction, for me, lies in owning them brand new.
Speaking of Adidas: in addition to the samba design, there has been an incredible surge in demand for Campus-00 this year. What do you think about that?
I’ve always been attracted to Adidas because I like wide-cut, big, tall shoes. The Campus 00 is a shoe I really appreciate, but I don’t own it in my archive. I stopped expanding my shoe collection around 1993-1994 because I noticed that the new productions did not meet my expectations in terms of materials and durability in both the basketball and lifestyle worlds.
What has been the shoe you’ve been most obsessed with?
There are many, but if I have to choose one, I would say the Converse All Star Pro Leather High, with the star and gold details. It’s a very hard shoe to find today. This style has no particular history but it is extremely rare.
I also searched for the Adidas EP shoe for a long time; it was a rare find, as it was exclusively produced for the Spanish market.
I also searched for the Adidas EP shoe for a long time; it was a rare find, as it was exclusively produced for the Spanish market.
Is there something unique in your collection that only you own?
Yes, I have a shoe that I believe is one-of-a-kind in the world. It is a collaboration between Le Coq Sportif and Adidas, featuring Le Coq Sportif branding on the inside and Adidas on the outside. The tongue displays the word "collection"- a phrasing that was not used back in the day. I’ve never shown it to anyone before. I remember buying it on eBay for a mere €30. Aesthetically, it may not be exceptionally elaborate, but it holds a special uniqueness. These shoes were originally crafted for French middledistance runner Michel Jazy. I don’t think the Adidas archive has this shoe either, although I could be wrong.
What are the key channels for searching and buying vintage shoes?
eBay has been and continues to be the main channel for searching. The number of possibilities you can have on eBay will never compare to other marketplaces. Obviously, luck is a factor, but in the long run it is discipline that counts. You have to put in the time and be patient to find opportunities. I follow a daily monitoring routine on eBay that has lasted 20 years. Even during vacations or when I am away, I always find time to check in. It’s a matter of finding your own method of staying constantly up-to-date with the sales channels and seizing opportunities as they arise.
What is your relationship with other collectors?
Is there anyone you have met that you are particularly close to?
Is there anyone you have met that you are particularly close to?
I had the good fortune to befriend someone in the United States who turned out to be very important both on a human level and for my journey as a collector. She helped me accumulate parcels from America so I could avoid having to send each one to Italy, since intercontinental shipping was often problematic and very expensive. She took care of shipping everything together for me at the lowest possible cost. Her friendship enabled me to complete many purchases at affordable prices from American warehouses and stores without having to physically travel there. She would send me photos, describe the shoes, and I was able to take home incredible pieces for $20 or $30.
There is respect and a good amount of competition among collectors. I personally feel serene, I don’t experience collecting as an obsession. I have been together with my girlfriend for more than 20 years. She has always supported me and her closeness has helped me focus on the important things in life.
All in all, I have invested in a passion that has given me the opportunity to travel, meet people and have fun at the same time.
There is respect and a good amount of competition among collectors. I personally feel serene, I don’t experience collecting as an obsession. I have been together with my girlfriend for more than 20 years. She has always supported me and her closeness has helped me focus on the important things in life.
All in all, I have invested in a passion that has given me the opportunity to travel, meet people and have fun at the same time.
